Sunday 30 September 2012

A toned-down fashion show for John Galliano in Paris

At Paris Fashion Week a clean minimalist look is showcased for John Galliano by the label's new creative director Bill Gaytten.

PARIS, FRANCE - The John Galliano women's spring/summer 2013 ready-to-wear show on Sunday (September 30) at Paris Fashion Week was strikingly sombre.

There were no big celebrity attendees or wild theatrical performances as were commonplace under John Galliano's reign.

With Bill Gaytten in charge, the presentation was completely pared down, with attention paid more to the clothes themselves than the side-show.

The collection was clean and unfettered, models presented garments displaying various combinations of drapes and folds.

It was a fitting tribute to the remarkable craftsmanship, cut, and construction that has come to define the House of Galliano.

Notwithstanding a few numbers rendered in graphic print, the majority of the collection was a restrained palette of stone, coral, navy, white, black and pale pink.

The lines were architectural, with draped and fitted jackets worn with voluminous trousers and statement oversized shorts.

A series of dramatic, wide-brimmed hats designed by Stephen Jones for John Galliano added a touch of glamour and Edwardian elegance to the collection.

John Galliano, the former creative director of Christian Dior, launched his eponymous label in 1984.
Ever since his Central Saint Martin's graduate show, the British designer has garnered a buzz in the fashion industry for both his flamboyant personality and his over-the-top shows.

After directing the collections at Dior for more than a decade, Galliano was sacked by the French house over a racist outburst. He was also removed from his position as head designer of his own label.
Bill Gaytten quietly assumed the role of Dior's interim creative director after Galliano's sacking until Raf Simons was appointed earlier this year. However, Gaytten remains in charge at John Galliano.

Though he may lack Galliano's flair for drama, Gaytten has remained faithful to the house's vision, after serving as Galliano's right-hand man for 23 years.

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