Perfumes are carefully formulated mixtures of natural or
synthetic oils, diluted with a suitable solvent. The dilution
is important, because the fragrance oils contain sufficiently
high concentrates of volatile components to cause allergic
reactions or even injury. So perfumes are frequently diluted in
ethanol or an ethanol and water mixture, although the oils can
also be mixed with jojoba, coconut oil, or even wax, so that
most perfumes contain only 20% to 40% of aromatic compounds.
Other fragrance products—eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de
cologne—are formulated so that they have even lower
concentrations of perfume oils.
Eau de parfum contains, perhaps, 10% to 30% of undiluted oils;
eau de toilette, between five and 20%; and eau de cologne even
less, between two and three per cent of perfume oils. It’s
interesting that the art of mixing a perfume is frequently
compared to music, in which the different notes combine to
create harmony. Perfumes are described as having three
different notes; head notes, or top notes; heart notes, or
middle notes; and depth notes, or base notes. Diane Ackerman,
of International Flavors & Fragrances, explained how she
creates a scent: “you can actually smell the accords, which are
like musical chords.
You will have simple fragrances, simple accords made from one
or two items, and it will be like a two- or three- piece band.”
Developing her own metaphor further, she continued, “And then
you have a multiple accords put together, [which] become a big
modern orchestra.” Many professionals who compose perfumes
agree that each of the notes creates its own scent, but they
combine to create an emotional or sensual effect in the person
wearing the perfume, as well as those around. As Ackerman went
on do say, that you don’t want anything to be overpowering.
While perfume was developed in the ancient world, with its
concept of the four earthly elements, the future for perfume
may lie in the fifth element, outer space. A joint research
project between the University of Wisconsin/Madison and
NY-based industry leader International Flavors and Fragrances
put a plant onto a NASA space shuttle in order to ascertain
whether changes in microgravity would alter the fragrant
essential oils plants produce.
IFF devotes about $100 million each year, to research and
development. Wisconsin scientist Norman Draeger explained,
“Companies like IFF are always looking for new sources of
fragrances that consumers haven’t experienced before. They find
plants form exotic places on earth, such as Africa or South
America, and identify pleasant tastes and smells.” Pausing for
emphasis, he resumed, “This latest exotic place where they
haven’t looked before happens to be in space.”
About The Author: Taisha Grant writes about
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and
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Sunday, 17 May 2009
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